My Historic Old Silk Route (Sikkim) Journey – Part I

After returning from the US in mid-July 2016, my mind yearned to travel to the Eastern Himalayan region. Just then, a childhood friend of mine told me to visit the Silk Route in Sikkim. Although I was aware of other tourist places in Sikkim, I had no experience of this route. Since I love offbeat travel, I decided to visit the Silk Route with great enthusiasm. But the only condition for this trip was that we would only stay in homestay because I had heard a lot about this “Homestay” concept of ecotourism, so I wanted to see everything with my own eyes.
I had booked everything in advance for this trip because, firstly, food stalls, restaurants and hotels are not very available on this offbeat route.
A homestay is the best option where you can stay, enjoy local traditional food, get an insight into their culture and rituals, and above all, enjoy the mesmerizing natural beauty of the Himalayas.

Back to the history of the Old Silk Route

The ancient Silk Route/Road was a historical trade network, connecting Asia, Europe, and North Africa. That spread from China to the Indian subcontinent, Persia, Arabia, and Europe (Greece, Italy, etc.). It was not a single route but a network of sea and land routes that spanned about 4000 miles. Also, this is the first global trade route in history.
In 138 BC, a Chinese diplomat named Zhang Qian under the Han Dynasty officially opened the Silk Route/Road. Silk is the main and most valuable luxury material on this route. That’s the reason it’s named “The Silk Road” or “The Silk Route.” Other products such as tea, spices, cotton, metal utensils, glassware, etc. were traded through this route. Through it, not only commodities but language, art, culture, and religion were exchanged. This route also played an important role in the propagation of Buddhism in particular.
A German geographer, traveler, and scientist, Ferdinand von Richthofen, first introduced the term “Silk Road” in the year 1877 CE.
The famous Italian traveler, Marco Polo, travelled along this trade route and was impressed by what he witnessed in the east.
The powerful King of the Kushan Dynasty, Kanishka, who ruled from 127 to 151 CE, started this route for Indians.
At present, some points of this ancient route are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The Old Silk Route, Sikkim – A small offshoot of the ancient Silk Road

The Old Silk Route of Sikkim lies in the eastern part of this Indian state and was an offshoot of the ancient Silk Road, which connected Lhasa (Tibet) with Tamralipta (now Tamluk, West Bengal) via the Chumbi Valley. Today’s tourists follow that historic and thrilling old route, which is an unparalleled experience for any offbeat traveler.
This famous trade route was completely closed in 1962 due to the Indo-China border war. On July 6, 2006, following a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) between the two countries, border trade through the Old Silk Route resumed at Nathula.
We read about this historical path in history books; our journey is a part of that historical path. On my travel itinerary, there are two famous mountain passes, Nathula and Jelepala, which connect the Chumbi Valley (Tibet). Important transit points on the long and dangerous old Silk Route were Kupup, Gnathang, Zuluk, Aritar, Rhenock, Pedong, and Kalimpong.

Essential Information of the Old Silk Route, Sikkim

Nearest Airport:

International: Bagdogra Airport (IXB), WB
Domestic:  Pakyong Airport (PKY), Sikkim
Nearest Main Railway Station: NJP

Important Bus Terminals:

• Kalimpong Bus Station, WB
• SNT Bus Terminal, Gangtok
• SNT Bus Terminal, Rongli
  

Note: Sikkim Nationalized Transport (SNT) bus service originates from Rongli to SNT, Siliguri via Rorathang and other SNT bus service originates from Rongli to the Captal Gangtok via Rorathang, Pakyong and Ranipool.

Permit for the Route

For Indian, Restricted Area Permit (RAP) previously known as Inner Line Permit (ILP) and is mandatory. Without this you cannot enter the route. From the SDPO Office at Rongli, you will have to get to travel to the old Silk Route. For Indian, we need to submit photocopy of Indian Citizenship Identity card (Indian Voter ID card or Driving License or Passport & others) and one passport size recent photo during the normal office hours (10am to 4pm). But You should carry your original ID for any cross-verification purpose.

NOTE: Foreigners are not allowed in the Old Silk Route & other some reserved areas in Sikkim which are very close to international border.
But Foreigners can travel in Sikkim with the Restricted Area Permit (RAP) previously known as Inner Line Permit (ILP). These can be acquired from all Indian Missions, Sikkim Tourism Offices (New Delhi & Kolkata), District Magistrates Office of Darjeeling, Siliguri, and Rangpo Check Post on the strength of an Indian Visa. Also, can contact to the Sikkim Tourism registered Travel Agent. Online facility will be launching soon.

Keep in mind the below things before traveling to the Old Silk Route-Sikkim

• The last ATM facility is available in Rongli on this route, so it is better to carry cash for the rest of the journey. You can buy essentials and medicines for the journey here.
• Carry chocolate, popcorn, some dry fruits, and some high-altitude sickness medicines prescribed by a doctor. Drink water to hydrate your body.
• Most rooms in homestays are standard types. Hot water is provided on demand. Power cutoffs happen frequently. Although the signal of the mobile connection is very weak in this route, it is always better to charge your phone when the power is on.
• It is better to stay in Zuluk or Phadamchen instead of Gnathang Valley if you have respiratory problems. Gnathang Valley is an ideal point for adventurous travelers.
• Keep enough warm clothes and raincoat with you.
• Lastly try to avoid polythene and plastic items like plastic mineral water, chips packets etc. because these are non-biodegradable and unhealthy for the environment, these should not be used.

The journey on the Old Silk Route (Sikkim) kicked off…

Each point of this itinerary has its own diversity, story, and history, which cannot be possible in one blog post. So, I present this travelogue in three parts. The first part of my journey would be from NJP station to our first destination, a small hill village called Ramdhura. Ramdhura Village is a small hill hamlet located in the Kalimpong District of West Bengal and near the Bengal-Sikkim border and an important starting point for traveling the old Silk Route. On March 6, 2017, I started the journey with my family in the “Teesta Torsha” train from Sealdah, the busiest railway station in Kolkata.

On March 7, 2017, we reached the NJP Railways station in the very early morning and at 6 am, a young Nepali driver welcomed us with a simple, sweet smile, and that was how our journey started. To reach our first destination, Ramdura, our reserved car ran towards Kalimpong. One by one, we crossed Siliguri, Bengal Safari Park (West Bengal’s new tourist hotspot), Sevokeshwari Kali Temple, and the famous Coronation Bridge (also known as Sevoke Bridge or Baghpool), which is the main connector between Darjeeling and the Dooars. Suddenly, my heart was filled with joy to look at the green hills and the bluish Teesta instead of the urban place.

But after all these years, KALIMPONG seemed to be nothing but a densely populated small town. The old serene & quiet look of the past was lost. Now this hill station is surrounded by hotels, water pipes, and open electric wires. this is really painful for us, and we should protect this Himalayan gem. I think that most of the popular hill stations are facing this kind of problem nowdays. For this reason, a section of tourists prefers a quiet offbeat place for their vacation. Kalimpong is now one of districts pf West Bengal and located between two peak hills; one is DEOLO HILL, which is the highest point of  Kalimpong, and the other is DURPIN DARA. Crossing the city, we reached Deolo or Delo Park at the top of Deolo Hill. This is one of favorite tourist attractions in Kalimpong.

Ramdhura: A quiet hamlet of Kalimpong, full of natural beauties

A magnificent panoramic view of the Kanchenjunga range on one side and an evergreen dense pine (locally known as Dhupi) forest on the other has made this hill town increasingly popular. This name derives from RAM means GOD and DHURA means Village.

Altitude & Location

At around 5,000 ft above the sea level. It’s located in the Kalimpong District of West Bengal state, India which is close to the West Bengal-Sikkim border.

Nearest Medical facility:

• District Hospital Kalimpong
• Army Hospital Kalimpong
• Other health centers & medical facilities are also available.

How to Reach

You can reach Ramdhura directly by Reserved Car from Airport or NJP or Siliguri. Bus service & Car (Shared/Reserved) are available from Siliguri Bus Terminal to Kalimpong town first and from there you need to book reserve & shared car for reaching Ramdhura. Kalimpong is also well connected by road from Darjeeling & Gangtok.

From Ramdhura (approx. measurement)

People & Livelihood

Earlier, the main tribes of Kalimpong were the Lepcha community and the migrant Bhutia, Limbu. But now Nepalis and non-natives like Bengalis, Biharis, Tibetans, and others live together with great courtesy and friendship irrespective of caste, religion, and caste.
More than 80% of the people here depend on agriculture. Kalimpong is known as the center of ginger, cardamom, oranges, and betel nuts. Orchid cultivation is one of the livelihoods of this area. In the last few years, many people have been directly and indirectly involved in eco-tourism, creating a new source of income.

Language

The main language now is Nepali. Other major languages ​​for conversation with tourists are Hindi, English. In addition, Tamang, Limbu, Lepcha, Bengali languages ​​are spoken.

Festivals

• Kalimpong Silk-Route Festival: It is an annual social gathering that showcases Kalimpong district’s rich history, historic sites, ethnic diversity, arts and culture, traditional sports events, folk music and dance, culinary history, and handicrafts to tourists. It will be held on the 3rd-7th November 2022.
• Losar: As per the Tibetan language, LO means YEAR and SAR means NEW, so it is a New Year’s festival. This harvest festival marks the celebration of farmers hardworking.
• Dasain: This festival symbolizes the victory of good over evil, which is celebrated with great joy and excitement. This is one of the major Hindu religious festivals and is a time for family reunions, the exchange of gifts and blessings, and worship of God.
• Diwali
• Holi

Nearest Attractions

• Historic Damsang Lepcha Fort, the Last Lepcha king PANO GAEBOO ACHYOK ruled his kingdom from this fort.
• Morgan House, Kalimpong: It is a British Colonial architectural style mansion, built in 1930 by a British businessman, Mr. George Morgan. Currently, it has been converted into a boutique hotel, which is managed by the West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation.
• Deolo(Delo) Park & Tourist Lodge: This is one of best places of Kalimpong. This tourist Lodge is situated atop the Deolo Hill, with a beautifully maintained garden, secluded from the world. This is maintained by the Gorkha Territorial Administration (former Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council) and best place for staying. The best 360-degree view of the Kanchenjunga range is available from here. If you are interested to stay lodge, traveler should book in advance and contact to the Gorkha Bhavan if you are from Kolkata or check the official site of the Gorkha Territorial Administration. Paragliding is available for adventurous travelers in front of this park.
• Zang Dhok Palri Monastery (Popularly known as Durpin Monastery): It is situated atop the Durpin Hill. This is famous for rare paintings can be seen inside the monastery.
• Ramitey Viewpoint (Sillerygaon), Best location for sunrise & sunset and a long panoramic view of Teesta River.
• Hanuman Tok (Viewpoint): From the famous temple premises, a spectacular view of the majestic Kanchenjunga peak in its full glory can be seen and the surrounding landscapes of Kalimpong and the neighboring state Sikkim are also clearly visible on bright sunny days.
• Graham’s Homes, the school for children with awesome views and an old church.
• Mahadev Dham Temple
• Nearest offbeat places are Lava Reserve Forest, Lollegaon(Kaffer),Rishyap, Rikisum.

Trekking & Hiking

In here, some short trekking routes

• A short trekking route from Ramdhura to Jalsa Bungalow passes through picturesque, dense green forests and Munsong Cinchona plantations. This famous bungalow was built during the British period (1930) within the Cinchona plantation area to house high-level officials. After independence, the West Bengal government changed its name to “Jalsa Bungalow”.
• You can do a short trek (around 2.5 Kms) to IccheyGaon or EchayGaon.

Best time to Visit

Any time of the year. Summertime always be pleasant cool. In Monsoon time, you will be in the world of clouds. We can see a wonderful, picturesque view of Kanchenjunga in wintertime from your homestay room.  So, Ramdhura welcomes travelers throughout the year.

Where to Stay

Many homestays are available here, and they provide accommodation and food. Transportation is available if it is required. Nowadays, most homestays have their own website and online booking system, so you can easily get all the information. Below are the contact details for some homestays for the latest tariffs and other valid information before your journey.

• Chamling Homestay
  Contact: +91 9733012921,9775065000
  

We stayed here. Traveler can enjoy the amazing natural beauty from the window of your room. We could not think that we can stay in a homestay with such modern arrangement in this small mountain village. Every room in this homestay was pretty clean, well decorated & mountain view. Hospitality was good enough and the homemade food was excellent. We enjoyed the chirping of birds and various forms of nature from the homestay’s balcony. Homestays are usually decorated with various colorful flowers, especially orchids and cactus, which greatly attract travelers.

• Khaling HomeStay +91 99338 03187
• Bhutia HomeStay +91 90024 61631, 9474148686

You can see some selected stunning photos & videos by clicking on the blog’s Instagram, Facebook and X(Twitter). Also, click the Gallery Section of this blog for only photos. I hope you will like those.

For other the Old Silk Route posts, click below links.

My Historic Old Silk Route (Sikkim) Journey – Part II

My Historic Old Silk Route (Sikkim) Journey – Part III

When we talk about the silk route, we have to talk about Kalimpong in North Bengal, which was famous as one of the trading centers during that time. A review of the rich historical events of Kalimpong shows how important this place was. Because this region was once under both Bhutanese and Sikkimese kingdoms, the proximity of Jelep La and Kalimpong was crucial for communication with Lhasa (Tibet). During the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1959, many Buddhist monks fled here and established monasteries that enriched the region religiously and spiritually. Please wait till the next part of this journey is released, and I am assuring all of you it will be more adventurous and interesting.

I have only shared with you my memorable experiences with homestay owners, drivers, or tour guides while traveling, but your experience may not be the same as mine. Hence, I have no responsibility in that case. I am just sharing information only.

• Haunted stories about the Morgan house continue to this day, with some people believing that Lady Morgan’s ghost haunts the mansion. Unfortunately, Lady Morgan had a premature death in this mansion, and Mr. Morgan, after that, abandoned this mansion. From that idea, the ghost story started.
• Kalimpong Lollipop: This sweet-milky lollipop is one of the most popular souvenirs of Kalimpong. A Swiss Jesuit priest, Father Andre Butty, introduced this in here in the 1950s. Because of its rich quality and taste, this is in high demand not only in India but around the world.