Dzongu, Sikkim: The Sacred Land of Lepchas

In mid of May 2021, after being infected with COVID-19, I became physically and mentally weak. After slowly recovering, I felt like going somewhere, so I decided to visit a offbeat Lepcha village TINGVONG with one of my childhood friends. I wanted to go for a long time but due to timing, busyness, and lockdown, I could not go at all.
So on March 10, 2022, we both started for NJP by Teesta Torsa Express train, but we booked the homestay in advance as the only place to stay. We first reached Singtam by a shared jeep from NJP after that again we took a shared jeep for the next destination “Mangan” and reached there around the evening.
The vehicle sent from the homestay owner was waiting for us and the first arrival at Sankalong Out Post from Mangan where we were allowed to enter after seeing our permits. When there was nothing but darkness and car lights all around but the sound of the flowing river and distant villages looking like Fireflies, then we experience that we were moving towards a magical world. Thus began our magical journey.

Dzongu: Bridge of Mayal Lyang

According to the Lepcha mythology, Mayal Lyang means Hidden Paradise or The land blessed by God which locates somewhere hidden in the foothills of Mt Kanchenjunga (Kongchen Chu in Lepcha language). Dzongu is said to be the bridge to Mayal Lyang. The Lepchas themselves believe that their place of origin is in Mayal Lyang. More than 4000 Lepchas are living in Dzongu.

Back to the History of Lepchas

Lepcha (Mu-tanchi-Rongkup) means Mother’s Loved Ones or Children of the God or Children of the Snowy Peak. The origin of the Lepchas is described in Lepcha folklore, which is really rich in fairy tales. The Lepchas themselves strongly believe that they are the original inhabitants of Sikkim (earlier it was the Independent Eastern Himalayan Kingdom). According to the 2001 census, the current population is around 80,316 people spread across the Indian states of Sikkim (Dzongu and South Sikkim), West Bengal (Darjeeling and Kalimpong), Western Bhutan, and Nepal (Ilam, Panchthar and Taplejung Districts). Currently, the majority of lepchas follow Buddhism and Animism (worship of nature) both side by side. Earlier, they followed the MUN religion. Some section of lepchas follow Christianity as well.

Where is Dzongu Located?

Dzongu is a fairly triangular shape dense forest mountain region in North Sikkim, located at 3000-20,000 feet(approx.) above sea level. This Lepcha Reserve area is bordered to north-east area by rapid flowing Tholung or Rongyoung chu (Chu means river in Bhutia Language) and the south-east area by the Teesta River. It is bounded by majestic Himalayan peaks, such as Mt. Kanchenjunga (27,803 feet), Mt. Pandim (21,950 feet), Mt. Simvo (22,476 feet) and Mt. Siniolchu (22,600 feet) in the west.

Note: Elevation is measured in Feet(approx.).

It borders the Kanchenjunga Biosphere Reserve in the north. This area is spread over an area of about 80 square kilometers. The place is full of quaint and picturesque villages. Administratively it is under Mangan subdivision and the nearest small town. The Rongyoung Chu (A tributary of the Teesta), also locals known as Kanaka. This river divides Dzongu into 2 parts, Upper Dzongu at North Side and Lower Dzongu at South Side.

Dont miss these Villages

• Tingvong (Upper)
• Kussong(Highest village of Dzongu – Upper)
• Passingdong(Lower)
• Lingthem(Upper)
• Pentong-Sakyong(Upper)
• Lingzya(Upper): Where Motorable road ends and trekking trail starts.
• Hee Gyathong(Lower): TUNG KYONG DHO(LAKE) is the sacred lake, is located at this village.
• Lingdong(Lower)

Why Dzongu is Reserved Area for Lepcha?

To preserve the primitive culture of the Lepchas in their original form. In the year 1960, Dzongu was declared as Lepcha Reserve by Chogyal Palden Thandup Namgyal. At that time Sikkim was a kingdom and ruled by Namgyal-Chogyal dynasty. In 1975, Sikkim became a state of India. The Indian Government has been continuing that reservation till now.
The Government of Sikkim has declared Dzongu as Primitive World on the 4th of April,2018.
So, Dzongu is one place in Sikkim where you can still experience the original Lepcha culture and traditions.
For Indian, we need to submit photocopy of Indian Citizenship Identity card (Indian VoterID card or Aadhar Card or Driving License or Passport & others) and recent passport size photo during the normal office hours (10am to 4pm) at DC (Office of District Collector), Mangan. You should carry your original ID for any cross-verification purpose.  Homestay owner can arrange Permit for travelers. So, before travel traveler can send all scanned documents to the owner and it will save your time. The driver (send by Homestay owner) who picked us from Mangan carried permits for entry to Dzongu. For Post Covid scenario, you need to provide vaccination certificates. Also check the latest Covid Guidelines of State.  Offbeat lovers can send a scanned copy of a valid ID and address proof along with a passport size photograph to the homestay owner. He can arrange the permit easily. A permit usually costs INR 150 per person.

How to reach Tingvong Village (Dzongu)

Essential Information of Tingvong, Dzongu

Altitude & State: At around 4,900 ft above the sea level. It’s located in northern part of Indian state Sikkim.
Nearest Airport:
International: Bagdogra Airport (IXB), WB
Domestic:  Pakyong Airport (PKY), Sikkim
Nearest Main Railway Station: NJP
Nearest Bus Terminal: Mangan

Note: There are no ATMs in Dzongu, so it is better to carry cash, and the nearest ATM is in Mangan.

You can reach here directly by Reserved Car from Airport or NJP or Siliguri. Bus service (Operated by Sikkim Government) & Car (Shared) are available from SNT Bus Terminal to Mangan. Mangan is the Headquarter of the largest district “North Sikkim” in terms of size in the state “Sikkim” which is located in eastern part of Indian Himalayan region. This district town is connected to the capital Gangtok by a road. Before travel, please check bus timings & fare in online Sikkim State Transport website (https://sntonline.sikkim.gov.in). Traveler can reach here from Singtam or Gangtok as well. We followed the below route via Singtam by shared car.

How are Lepchas?

They are simple, shy, friendly, humble, cheerful, hospitable primitive tribe whose main deity is nature. Lepchas love music and their music is influenced by nature. Lepchars are very fond of archery, so archery competitions are held almost throughout the year.

Livelihood of Lepcha

In the past, Lepchas were dependent on hunting, and they are good hunters as well. But as a result of wildlife conservation, hunting is now illegal. That is why they are now dependent on agriculture. The main source of livelihood for the locals is mainly cardamom and ginger cultivation. But in the last few years, the crop has been severely damaged by virus attacks. So, they put more emphasis on vegetable farming and animal husbandry. Rice, wheat, potato, oranges, maize, millet, and other crops are also grown.

Traditional Lepcha Handloom Attire

Traditional Lepcha handloom plays a significant role in Sikkim. Mainly the weaving is done by Lepcha women. Cloth is woven with yarn made of cotton and wool, which is characterized by colorful patterns arranged in a vertical stripe. In ancient times Lepchas used yarn made of Nettle (Sisnu) leaves to weave clothes. In addition to their traditional clothing, they make handbag (Tunggip), belts, table mats, curtains, tray cloths etc.

• Traditional Lepcha Man Dress is called as “DUMPRA” with a Flat round hat “Sumok Thyaktuk“.
• Traditional Lepcha Woman Dress is called as “DUM BUN“or “DUMDEM“.

Lepcha Artifacts

Cane & Bamboo are integral parts of the lives of the Lepchas. There is a “Bamboo Craft Center” in Lingdong village where you can purchase Taleung (baskets), Thungzyang (doko), Puthyut (container for millet beer), Tuksure (fish trapping tool) and Popular Musical instruments like Pungtong (flute), Tungbuk (Lepcha guitar). Wood carving is another great skill of the Lepcha.

Lepcha Language & Common Words

Lepchas have their own language as well as script, but they can speak in Hindi & English both. So, if you travel in Dzongu, you never feel any communication gap. Lepcha Language is classified as Tibeto-Burman language sub family is known as “RONGRING“. 

Lepcha Cuisine

• Churpee – This is cottage cheese with Ningro (Wild Fiddle head Fern).
• Kinema – Made with Fermented Soybean.
• Khuree – Homemade Crape (Roll type), made from millet (Mong) and buckwheat (Khusru) flour and stuffed with Churpee, wild herbs, and leafy greens mixtures. Served with a chutney/sauce made with tree tomatoes, walnuts, and Dalle Khursani (One of the hottest chilies in the world).

• Gundruk Jhol – Gundruk is actually made from fermented and sun-dried mustard leaves, cabbage leaves, or radish leaves. The real taste of Gundruk soup is available at homestays in Sikkim, where it is completely homemade. As it is rich in lactic acid, it helps relieve diarrhea and boosts immunity. Also good for indigestion.
• Chi – The Traditional Alcoholic Drink made with Ferment Millet (Mong) grain.

• Khutel – Millet Flour Thick Pancake.
• Sishnu Soup – Stinging Nettle (Bicchu Shak).
• Putyut Mon Yur – Pork dish with Bambo shoot.
• Local harvested Potatoes stir fry with green peas & onion flowers.

Where to Stay

In Dzongu, homestay is the only option for accommodation and food, those are run only by Lepcha people and are located in the villages of Kusong, Tingvong, Lingthem, Passingdong, Sakyong. Most of these accommodations are simple extensions of simple family homes. One thing always remembers most of the homestays have no attached toilets because they don’t prefer this. As per experience, we are impressed by their hospitality.
The homestay owner can arrange transportation from Mangan if it is required. Also, they can arrange treks as well. Some homestays have their website, you can easily get the latest information.
Below are the contact details for some homestays for the latest tariffs and other valid information.

√ Mayal Lyang Homestay
Passingdong Village
Contact: Gyatso Lepcha
Phones: +91-9434446088,9647872434

√ Royal Dzongu Homestay
Tingvong Village
Phone(s): +91 99330 20391, 99338 06111, 90027 20222

√ Lingthem Lyang Homestay
Lingthem Village
Phone(s): +91-9593781926, 8436000318

√ Dzongu Lee Homestay
Lingdong Village
Contact: Lhamu Lepcha
Phone(s): +91-96098 64255

√ Dzongu Dupden Lepcha Home Stay
Tingvong Village
Phone(s): +91-9593783043

√ Rumlyang Homestay, Tingvong Village
I stayed this homestay, which is located in the middle of the small, picturesque village named Tingvong. The homestay is a simple, lovely, tiny wooden structure with a few cozy rooms, and their hospitality is unmatched. You can taste delicious Lepcha food cooked with vegetables from the nearby garden. From the homestay, the views of the Pandim and other peaks of the Kanchenjunga range are truly breathtaking, with the serene atmosphere disturbed only by the chirping of birds. Nature lovers can spend the day hiking and birdwatching in the surrounding forest. Wake up to the sunrise from behind the snow-capped Kanchenjunga range, take a long walk around the lush green forests or pristine hills, or have a lively conversation with the villagers. It is a real haven for the Eco-conscious traveler. Rest assured; you will return home completely rejuvenated.

Contact: Karma Lepcha
+91-7407345281 (WhatsApp),8001608667

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What to do & Nearest Attractions

• Village Walk: This is best option to feel the surrounding beauties and know the local. The colorful prayer flags flying on bamboo poles along the hilly roads of remote Dzongu village, the unmistakable form of the mountains in the distance, the typical traditional houses of the Lepchas amidst the greenery of the cardamom-paddy-potato fields – nothing less than heaven. This Himalayan place is a hub for medicinal plants.
• Watching butterflies & Birds: These are attractions here. Different species of butterflies & Birds can be seen here. Dzongu is home to numerous Himalayan birds that inhabit the place and different species of butterflies found here.
• Waterfalls: Dzongu has many unexplored and lesser-known breathtaking waterfalls. Just the scenic view of these waterfalls will mesmerize you and soak you in their magical spell. One of the best waterfalls is Lingzya Waterfall, among them.

• Monasteries (Gumphas): Tingvong Monastery:  This monastery was built by Lama Tambi in 1843 A.D.Tholung Monastery (one of the most sacred monasteries in Sikkim): This old monastery is located in the upper Dzongu. This monastery was built in the of the 18th century to prevent the attacks of the Gorkha and to preserve the old manuscripts of these scriptures and manuscripts are displayed every three years for locals and tourists alike.
  Hee Gyathong: This century-old monastery is located in a small village in the lap of the serene mother nature of Dzonggu. In 2011, it was damaged by an earthquake and then reconstructed. It was built by a monk named Abi Putso Rangdrol in the year 1914.
• Sulphur hot spring in the middle of the forest is located at Lingdem village.
• Mantam Lake & Suspension Bridge

• Namprikdang: A traditional Lepcha museum or model locates at the serene confluence of the Teesta and Rongyoung Chu rivers near the entry gate of the Sankalong Police Check-post. The house was built on stone pillars based on Lepcha architecture, keeping in mind the natural calamities of the region. This type of traditional house is called as Dok Kay Moo.  So, it is still relevant today and surprises everyone.
  

Hike-Trek: Travelers can do low and High-altitude Himalayan trekking routes. Always better to hire a local guide & porters for these short/long treks. Homestay owner and Locals can arrange treks if you are adventurous.

         Trekking Routes:

• • • Kishong Lake Trek (One of the holiest Lakes of SIKKIM) – Altitude 15,400 ft(approx) & Type is Difficult.
    • Tingvong Village to Tingvong Monastery to Kusong Village – Type is Short & Day Trek.
    • Tholung Trek – Altitude 8,200 ft(approx) – Type is Difficult and Most Popular.
    • Lingthem Trek – The walk from Passingdong to Lingthem is challenging because of the steep trail & takes 2-3 Hrs. Type is Short & Day.

Lepcha Popular Festivals – Mostly Worship (Faat) to God (Rum) 

The Lepchas celebrate many festivals almost throughout the year. In this manner, they express their gratitude to Mother Nature.

• Chu Faat Folk Dance Festival: The word “Chu” means “Mountain Peak“. The Lepchas worship the snowy seven peaks (Narsing Chu,Pandim Chu,Kim Chu,Siniol Chu,Simvo Chu,Kobru Chu and Karsing Chu) of the Kanchenjunga Mountain range through this group dance which is held on the 15th day of the seventh month according to the Buddhist calendar. The Chu Phat dance shows their gratitude. So, to them, it is not just a folk dance, but more of a ritual through which they worship the giver. It will be a once-in-a-lifetime experience to witness for you.

• Tendong Lho Rum Faat: This is an indigenous festival prevalent among the Lepcha community of Sikkim. It is an annual festival celebrated at Tendong Monastery (south Sikkim) and Dzongu both in the months of July and August every year.

• Muk Zikding Rum Faat: The seven-day festival Muk Zikding (meaning “The Germination of Green Plants”) Rum Fat is a festival associated with nature and green. It usually occurs from February to March every year. This festival reinforces Lepcha’s belief that a balanced environment is an integral part of the survival of the human race. During this festival, the altar is decorated with fruits, flowers, food grains, medicinal plants, etc. and a stone pillar called “Longchaok” is placed near the altar.

• Namsoong or Nambun: Lepcha community celebrates these seven days long festival to welcome the New Year as per the ‘Dungit Karchu’ (Lepcha Calendar). It generally happens every year in December to January. Many games like Long Tyouk (It’s a game in which flattened stones are thrown into specific locations.), thahut (Jumping Competition) and Chongay (Game of Archery) along with songs and dances are performed. Lastly organizes grand feast with favorite lepcha cuisines.

Weather & Best time to Visit

In the Rainy season (June to September), quite high rainfall happens here. So, the possibility of a landslide is very high and outdoor activities will be affected. Some adventurous travelers enjoy this lash green of the rainy season but it’s better to avoid traveling this time.
In winter, harsh chilly weather. At that time Temperature drops to a close freezing point and heavy snowfall chances. As per me, you can travel anytime except rainy season.

Local Medical Facilities

There are few Health centers are available. There is no Hospital in Dzongu and nearest hospital is located at Mangan. So before travel please carry some common medicines for common high-altitude issues & others.

I have only shared with you my memorable experiences with homestay owners, drivers, or tour guides while traveling, but your experience may not be the same as mine. Hence, I have no responsibility in that case. I am just sharing information only.

 

This is one of the reasons why I have to pay attention to Lepcha when writing the travel story of my Dzongu trip. Because Dzongu is incomplete without Lepcha & their ancient, rich & unique traditions. I don’t have enough words to describe the natural beauty of this place. A special thanks to Mr. Dupu Lepcha (who currently works at Tingvong Secondary School) for sharing lots of unknown information about his own culture & Tradition.

• On August 13, 2016, heavy rains caused a massive landslide that blocked the course of the Rongyoung river and destroyed all nearby mountain roads. This natural created a lake, now known as “Mantam Lake“.

• Kanchenjunga Biosphere Reserve is UNESCO World Heritage Site, listed in July 2016.